Refried Beans

Last week I wrote about how to cook beans from scratch and why they are so much better than canned beans. Did I inspire you enough to go to the store and buy a bag or two? I hope so!

Taking the next step to make refried beans is almost too easy. Refried beans are not really fried twice as the name suggests. The word “refried” comes from the Spanish word “refritos”, which means “well-fried”. Refried beans are simply cooked beans that are mashed and fried in a skillet with some fat and seasonings, until they are creamy. You can use any kind of beans to make refried beans, but pinto beans and black beans are the most common. I may sound like I’m preaching to the choir but if you can find heirloom beans, those are the best.

Refried Beans

4 cups cooked beans and some reserved bean broth

¼ cup fat – olive oil, lard or bacon fat

1 small onion, preferably white, sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon salt

Heat the fat in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until soft. Add the beans, salt and ½ cup of the reserved cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, stirring and mashing the beans with a potato masher or an immersion blender until they are smooth and thick. Add more liquid if needed to adjust the consistency. The whole process takes only about 15 minutes.

I mash my beans with a machacadoro, the traditional tool authentic cooks use in Mexico. I’m not a gadget person but this is one of those wonderful things that I had no idea I wanted until I got one. The beans really do turn out better when I use this than when I use the potato masher or immersion blender. Some recipes call for oregano, cumin or chili powder; I prefer not to use those. Refried beans made from scratch are so delicious they almost don’t need any toppings but it’s not against the law if you want to add some.

Refried beans store well in the refrigerator or freezer. You can reheat them in the microwave or on the stove, adding a little water if they are too dry. They are a great source of protein, fiber, iron and antioxidants, and they are also gluten-free and vegan (if you use oil instead of animal fat).

I wrote these last three columns for Steve, the editor of this newspaper, when I found out he did not know how to make refried beans. Now that you know how Steve, I’m going to hold you to it and pepper you with questions the next time I see you. You’re on the hook!